What blackheads are
A blackhead is a pore clogged with oil and dead skin cells that stays open at the surface. The plug darkens where it meets the air. When the same kind of clog is closed over, it’s a whitehead. The nose, chin and forehead get them most because that’s where skin makes the most oil.
They might not be blackheads
Lots of the grey or tan dots across the nose are sebaceous filaments: normal oil lining the pore, which everyone has. They look similar, especially in photos, but they’re flatter and more even, and they refill a few days after you squeeze them. They don’t need treating, though the same gentle routine can make them less noticeable.
What helps
- A retinoid. The American Academy of Dermatology says dermatologists recommend a retinoid to unclog pores. Adapalene gel is available without a prescription in many countries. Start a few nights a week, use a pea-sized amount, and wear sunscreen in the morning.
- Salicylic acid (BHA). It dissolves in oil, so it works inside the pore. A cleanser or leave-on product two to three times a week is a common starting point.
- A gentle routine around them. Mild cleanser, a light “non-comedogenic” moisturiser and sunscreen, so the actives don’t leave your skin dry and irritated.
Start one active at a time, not both at once, so you can tell how your skin takes it.
What doesn’t
- Scrubbing. The AAD is direct about it: the black dots aren’t dirt, so resist scrubbing; it will only make acne worse.
- Squeezing. It can push the plug deeper, inflame the skin and leave marks, and the pore usually refills anyway.
- Pore strips as a fix. They pull out the top of the plug for a few days at most; they don’t stop new ones forming.
How long it takes
Give a treatment six to eight weeks before judging it, as the AAD advises. Retinoids can make skin look a little worse in the first weeks before it settles. If you still have lots of blackheads or whiteheads after that, a dermatologist can offer prescription treatment or remove them properly (comedo extraction).
Not sure where to start?
A photo can’t always tell a blackhead from a sebaceous filament, and a good report says so. FacialStack looks at three photos of your face (front, left and right), describes what’s visible and suggests a simple morning and night routine, with what each step is for. The report is free with a free sign-in, for adults 18+. It’s cosmetic guidance from what a photo shows, not a diagnosis. You can see an example report first.
More guides
- Which skincare products should I use?
- Large pores: why they look bigger and what actually helps
- Dark circles under your eyes: why you get them and what helps
- Skincare routine order, morning and night
- A simple skincare routine for oily skin
- Dark marks after spots: why they stay and what fades them
- A simple skincare routine for men (beard included)
- AI skin analysis from a photo: what it can and can’t tell you
Source: American Academy of Dermatology, guidance on treating blackheads and whiteheads (aad.org). General information only, not medical advice.